Digging the Dirt

Does dirt make a difference?

Eola Hills-Photo courtesy of Oregon Wine History Archive at Linfield University 

There has been some debate in the wine-o-sphere about whether the soil the grapes are grown in affects the flavor of the resulting wines. In 2018, there were a number of articles claiming that the science just wasn't there to justify the influence that soil has on the wine in your glass (BBC; Decanter). However, the whole principal of that fancy word terroir is a "sense of place." And terroir – the climate, soil, water, sunlight, and geology of a vineyard – can indeed influence the wines that are grown there. 

The sunlight, rainfall, and temperatures that are part of the vineyard environment are more easily recognized as having an impact on the health of the vines — after all, vines are plants that need to photosynthesize (sunlight), stay hydrated (rainfall), and not get too hot or too cold (temperature). But what of the soil and geology of the vineyard?

The main purpose of soil is to hold on to water and provide nutrients to a plant. Different types of soil provide various benefits with regard to particle size (smaller drains water faster) and varying mineral content. You might think that the more fertile the soil, the better the grapes will grow, but that is not the case with wine grapevines. Really fertile soil, like on the Willamette Valley floor, actually makes a grapevine overproduce, growing too big and making too much fruit (usually not of great quality). Most grapevines like to struggle a bit to find the water and nutrients they need to thrive and create fewer bunches of beautiful fruit (for us to squeeze and drink), so the less fertile the soil the better. So, the hills around Salem provide just the right geology for the vines.

The main types of soil in the North-Central Willamette Valley right around Salem are volcanic basalts, which have a lot of clay content and iron and retain water well. You can see a lot of the reddish Jory soil around, which shows that iron content off. 

There is also Nekia soil out to our west, which is a little darker and has marine sediments. Those soils have a lower pH balance that causes the vines to grow deeper into the ground to get their water and minerals.

So, how might these different soils affect taste? Obviously, all of factors of terroir have an impact on the wines that are made in a given year. If you taste your way around the Salem area — pinot noir in particular — you can experience the difference terroir makes in your glass. Wine grapes grown in Jory soils tend to have brighter flavors of red fruits (think cranberry and raspberry) while Nekia soils yield darker and earthier notes (blackberry and cigar anyone?). 

What the roots of the vine do in the soil is their own business. They are clearly using the soil for their own benefit, though they are probably not absorbing different flavors from the earth. How they grow and thrive in a particular soil type is helping them produce fruit with these very different qualities. 

While the definitive answer about soil's influence on flavor is still unknown, I would suggest that you be the judge. Come by Studio Vino to taste for yourself, and ask just one question, "Do you dig it?"

We are ready to meet you! For the special opening events, drop by Aug. 1-4 or Aug. 10-11 at The Holman Hotel, 195 Commercial St SE, Salem between 12-5 pm so we can really dish the dirt (and taste some wine!).

Loving Labels

What are you trying to tell me?

You know what a beautiful label can do...it catches your eye; it compels you to pick up the bottle; it makes you want to know more.  Wine labels are mini stories unto themselves, and have so much more to tell you than what's in the bottle. There is, of course, mandatory information that is legally required to appear on the label, like what kind of wine it is, who bottled it, and how much alcohol by volume it contains. But you can learn much more than that with a quick perusal of the front and back of the bottle you are considering.

While the label art itself might grab your attention, take a moment to look at what the label is trying to tell you. If you're drinking a local Oregon wine, you can find out exactly where the wine was grown and bottled. While the general area right around Salem is called the Willamette Valley AVA, there are several smaller growing areas called sub-AVAs that are nested in the larger valley, each one with distinct characteristics of geography and climate. 

This vineyard 👆 in the Willamette Valley AVA is in the Eola Amity Hills sub-AVA, a growing area just to the west of Salem which is currently producing some of the best wines in Oregon, if not the world. That's worth noting! Also look for the sub-AVAs of Van Duzer Corridor or Mt Pisgah, Polk County for wines grown and produced right around Salem!

This wine label 👉 has some extra fun information on the back about the exact Pinot Noir clones used in this beautiful rosé (more on clones in a later post). It also lets you know what type of soil the grapes are grown in, which can influence what you're tasting in the glass (more on soil also in a later post). The other thing I love about this label is that it gives you a nice window of the best time to drink this wine — peak drinkability! Who doesn't want that information? You can also see the sustainable certifications in the lower right of that image. These certifications are common in the Willamette Valley and indicate low environmental impact for growing practices, safety for our salmon populations in the waterways, and in the case of this rosé, vegan production!

Labels will also often show you a scale of sweetness if the wine is not technically dry. The Pinot Blanc in this bottle 👉 is on the edge of dry/medium dry or could be called "off dry," which means that there is some sugar remaining after fermentation, but not a lot.  A wine is considered "dry" if there is less than 10 grams of sugar per liter remaining after fermentation. The sweetness goes up based on the grapes used and style of winemaking. Even if you don't think you like sweeter wines, give off dry a try. It is still not overly sweet (and it makes a great companion to spicier foods).

Of course, label art is also important! Many of our local wineries use artwork for their labels that is created by local artists. Always ask when you go to visit (and maybe pick up a postcard of the artist's work!). Beyond the obviously beautiful appeal of local wine labels there is a story to be told.

Until next time, cheers!

Fun Wine Resources

Let's face it, wine is a good time. 

And learning about wine is a potentially endless, joyful, wild, ride. With wine, there is always more to discover, from finding a grape you have never heard of to seeing how new vintages change every year (and wondering why). 

If you're (very) serious about wine, you can engage in formal study tracks towards certifications through leveled courses like the WSET or the Court of Master Sommeliers. I did my own study through the Society of Wine Educators and the Napa Valley Wine Academy (psst ... NVWA is having a sale until July 7th!). These kinds of courses are very detailed and can take a lot of time and money. They are certainly great choices if you want a career in the wine or fine dining industries, or in my case, a path in wine education. 

But what if you are just curious about wine, want to pick something besides your old standby box o' white, or maybe just want to be able to choose a bottle to take to a backyard barbecue (because what goes with hot dogs anyway 🤷)? 

To get your questions answered, here are some resources you may want to check out:

I highly recommend you start with Wine Folly. Their site and wine resources are just awesome! Approachable, fun, and informative, their website can answer many questions that you may have about wine in easy to understand guides, posts, and graphics.

VinePair is kind of an all-booze fun zone with articles, infographics and lists that are quick and easy reads to boost your wine knowledge for choosing a good bottle (using their "top" lists) or finding ways to pair wine with food. They often have fun posters like this one (taken from Instagram) that may come in handy for your July 4th plans:

**Fun Fact: Most of these wines ☝ are grown and/or made right here around Salem, including Champagne, which is produced here as traditional method sparkling wine (or Method Oregon)!**

For local information about our beautiful Willamette Valley growing area, check out the Willamette Valley Wineries Association. There is great information on their website about local wineries and planning your visit through the region. You can also check out Travel Salem for a handy tasting map of the valley!

The Oregon Wine Board has a neat page on their website about the grape varieties that grow in the Willamette Valley, so that might also be a great place to start if you're curious about what we grow here (and why you should taste it). 

When we are ready to go, Studio Vino will be a prime spot to taste, learn and grow your wine knowledge. We are looking forward to seeing you there!